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loved it. you will love the journey through the best surfing locations that California has to offer. I felt like I became part of the surfing culture while reading this book.
2 of 2 people found this review helpful
Storyline was anecdotal, uneventful and left open ended. Not a whole lot of shop talk about surfing. no real discernible goals or driving force to the memoir....basically you could sum this entire book up in about 10 minutes.
started to find the writing overdone and bogged down with complex vocabulary and "poignant" observations.
overall kook was a better read, still looking for the great American surfing book though......maybe an Aussie will write it.