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Would you recommend this audiobook to a friend? If so, why?
Yes, The author Gerry Lopez knows what he writes about.
What did you like best about this story?
I enjoyed Gerry's philosophy and the surfing history and hearing the stories of people who were legends in the waters where I grew up.
What aspect of Danny Campbell’s performance would you have changed?
Great Narrator but read some Hawaiian place names beyond recognition. He could've used some native input there.
Was there a moment in the book that particularly moved you?
Yes, Gerry describes letting go and finding the strength he needed in that process. Any help to get me through near drownings I'm paying attention to.
Any additional comments?
After listening to Over 100 audio-books this was the first one I was lead to review. I hope I can spend some time with Gerry Lopez and absorb some of his wisdom.
With Aloha, Patrick Ching
Great stories told by a great story teller. Lopez's humour shines through wrapped in a large dollop of surf wisdom.
You don't need to be a surfer to enjoy it, but if you are, you'll find yourself nodding and smiling as you appreciate that even the greatest go through the same emotions in the water as the rest of us.
I loved it!
As a surfer and starting my time it the water as Lopez is charging (to a lesser degree than I thought) big waves with Laird and his crew in the 90s. His name is one I associate with the best of surfing and surfers. So to hear his story and the development of the surf industry and culture was a worthy listen. Lopez is a humble surfer and the epitome of the old guard. The book is well read (although my L did think Campbell sounded a bit like Donald Trump) and the time keeps you involved in the tale.
Do you need to be a surfer or Waterman to enjoy the book......possibly not but the emotions and descriptions of the conditions will resonate deeper if you know from experience what Lopez is going through.
I will probably listen to much of it again.....soon.
Really enjoyed this book from one of the legends of surfing! Humorous and well told with the depth and breadth that kept me totally captivated from start to finish! I was sad when I finished it!