In this issue:
br>"Not Covered", by Jeffrey Toobin: Abortion enters the health-care battle.
OUR LOCAL CORRESPONDENTS
br>"Lunch With M.", by John Colapinto: Undercover with a Michelin inspector.
LETTER FROM CHINA
br>"Reds", by Evan Osnos: The creation of a wine-loving class.
LETTER FROM MONTREAL
br>"Funny Food", by Calvin Trillin: A national joke may becoming a national dish.
br>"Aspic", by Judith Thurman
br>"Duck", by Heston Blumenthal
br>"Eggs", by Anthony Lane
br> "Rice", by Jhumpa Lahiri
br>"Unheavenly Host", by Nancy Franklin: A radio and talk-show host's absence from the airwaves.
(P) and ©2008 The New Yorker