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Let's put aside the complete historical apocrypha frequently referenced as fact throughout and address the author's homophobia (in their disgust for the 'foppishness' of previous ages) and sexism. It's pretty bizarre that the author of a treatise on the history of fashion would spend almost all their time discussing the male reaction to women's fashion choices, particularly in the 19th century section, with absolutely zero critical eye on why these comments were being made, and almost no references to what the women themselves thought at the time. The chunk on crinolines is the most extreme example. It lacks any historical context, and implies women who died by accidentally burning to death were at fault, offering up a single article by a woman in defence if the fashion after running through literally an entire chapter of male voices decrying them and mocking women who died while wearing them. Gross.
Acknowledgement of women's contributions to a heavily female-focused art form are cursory - with the author vastly preferring to spend a majority of her time discussing the reactions of male preachers and politicians to fashion. That would be fine if she made an effort to offer any historical context of any kind, which she does not. Where sexism is acknowledged, it somehow also manages to be very strange and gross - a preacher is "within his bounds" to say bobbing a woman's hair is disgusting according to scripture, but goes "a sexist step too far" only when he makes a separate comment. I think this is an attempt by the author to acknowledge historical context, but even so, it's clumsily done and doesn't make whatever point she was driving at.
At its best the book is sometimes entertaining, but it is consistently poorly written and researched. A waste of time for anyone interested in serious discussions of fashion history in a social context.
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