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Having resolved to master a big - hollow wave - that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder-in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords listeners vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
Customer ReviewsMost Helpful
By michael wakeman on 10-06-17
Great book, makes you want to paddle out
really liked it some passages were a bit too drawn out. sections on the enviroment, wales, japan for example.
but the story on a whole is great.
really wjat you meed whem you camt get out and surf, or are just startimg out.
also good lessons on patience and love, life.